Gucci Resort 2015

Review by Nicole Phelps
Over the course of the last several months, Frida Giannini has endured persistent rumors that she would exit Gucci. The designer denied them publicly in May. At her Resort presentation today, she made her position clear in another way, partnering with the artist Kris Knight on a floral print featuring plants that have historically been used by women to seduce, command power over men, and otherwise provide protection. "I went beyond the flower box and picked botanicals that either blossomed at night, dawn, or dusk, but also chose plants that have strong roots for adaptability, persistence, and resistance in harsh environments," Knight said in a press release. Plenty of subtext to read into that if you're looking for it. Writ large, the print was very pretty, not unlike the Flora print with which Giannini made her name at Gucci in the mid-aughts. And the below-the-knee slip and chemisier dresses (with detachable collars) on which the print appeared were undeniably charming, among the best of the Resort season so far.

Giannini is coming off a terrific Fall show, and some of the pieces here, including the pastel peacoats and stacked-heel loafer boots, are developments from that collection. She extended the marinière metaphor with a striped sequin sweater and extremely low-slung sailor pants in a variety of fabrics, from stonewashed denim to black leather. A chambray shirt and equally casual jean skirt with coral embroideries rounded out this strong offering. Giannini knows that ultimately the clothes must speak for themselves, and what they had to say here was plenty persuasive.